Gilda's Famous Lentil Soup

Zuppa di Lenticchie di Gilda
Lentils are marvelous things. Extolling the health benefits and relatively low cost of these legumes seems almost redundant these days, so I won’t dwell on their virtues, except to say that there’s plenty of reading material about the great culinary value this food has all over the world.
Lentils are delicious and hearty without being overly dense. There are three types of lentils – normal, red, and French; my mother used the French type – or the darker legume.
Cost effective, I lived off this soup while at the university, as a Peace Corps volunteer serving in Africa, and I continue to enjoy it even now. It doesn’t require much work and stores well. It was one of Wally’s favorite soups.
My mother made it regularly – my sister Adele was particularly fond of it – she would even ask her to make it when we lived in Syosset.
This recipe has one or two modest embellishments which, of course, are optional but I think they transcend the soup from ordinary to ottimo! The first enhancement agent is pancetta, no surprise there – lentils and cured pork belly pair famously. The second is the used rinds of old Parmigiano Reggiano cheese wedges. Italians have a soup preparation they call ribollita where they throw these rinds in (along with the entire contents of an exhausted vegetable drawer of a refrigerator). You get a cheesy flavor in the soup that’s just amazing. Plus, you’re using what is essentially waste. (If you haven’t been saving your rinds, you can always mix in some grated fresh Parmigiano Reggiano at the end of cooking, but I wouldn’t recommend the canned grated cheese – it’s crap, if you would excuse my deprecatory wording).
Ingredients:
1 T olive oil
3 oz pancetta, chopped into very small pieces (optional)
1 small or ½ large onion, chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
3 leeks, cleaned and halved then cut into thin semi-circles
½ t sea salt
4 toes garlic, chopped fine
6 c stock (chicken, rabbit, pork, or vegetable)
1 can of petite cut tomatoes
1 lb lentils, washed and removed of pebbles
2-3 Parmigiano Reggiano rinds (optional)
1 t thyme (or 3 sprigs of fresh, leaves removed and chopped)
1 t oregano (or 3 sprigs of fresh, leaves removed and chopped)
Italian parsley to garnish, chopped fine
Preparation:
Heat the optional pancetta in the olive oil on medium-low flame for 10 minutes until the fat renders. Next, add the vegetables up through the leeks and the salt (if you chose to eschew the pancetta, simply add the vegetables to the oil) and sweat for 5-10 minutes, until the leeks soften. With a minute or two to go, add the garlic.
Next, add the stock, tomatoes and lentils, and then bring to a boil. Next, reduce to a simmer and add the cheese rinds and spices. Simmer the soup mixture for 35-45 minutes, until the lentils are cooked to your liking (this will involve testing them every few minutes after the 35 minute mark). Normal and red lentils will probably be on the short side of the cooking time whereas French ones will be on the high side.
At this point, remove an amount of the soup to your blender/processor and blend until smooth. Add this back into the pot to thicken matters slightly. I do not recommend an amount to remove because this is contingent on how smooth/thick/chunky you like your soup. I’d say around a cup is a nice balance. Remember- always be careful transferring and blending hot liquids.
Let the soup cool before serving. Do not serve soup piping hot – the great flavors in the soup will be hidden.
Buon appetito da Gilda!

Gilda's Ceci Bean Soup with Pasta

Zuppa di Ceci con Pasta di Gilda
This soup was one of Sam Zeoli’s favorites. Gilda would make this for him when we lived in Syosset. I remember one cold autumn evening when she picked him up at the train station right by Weintraub’s stationery and soda fountain shop on his return from Manhattan– she had left the soup simmering very low on the stove, and the fried cod fish was in the oven on warm. My dad would return home about 6:30-7:00 pm during the work week, and she and my grandmother, Adelina, would always have food prepared for him when he got home. I knew this soup was one of his favorites, if not the favorite, because he usually wanted a second bowl (so did I, needless to say).
Zuppa di Ceci con Pasta is a Neapolitan classic traditionally served on Fridays before the baccalà (cod fish). It is a comfort food, nutritious, and loaded with fiber – it will keep your insides in good health!
The thing to keep in mind about making Gilda’s Zuppa di Ceci is remembering to soak the chickpeas – it’s very easy to forget to do the night before. Then you need to remember to cook them at a gentle simmer for at least a couple of hours. You can use canned chickpeas, but then you will miss the water the chickpeas were cooked in which provides a great stock with which to make your soup. Once the soaking and bean cooking is over, it’s all very easy, you are basically making a soup and then cooking some pasta in it.
You prepare your soffrito of finely chopped onion, carrot and celery, sautéing them gently and slowly in oil until soft, floppy, and translucent. Then you add a little bit of tomato paste and a sprig of rosemary, stir, and then 2/3 of your cooked chickpeas. You stir again and then cover everything with stock or water, and throw in a Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (most Italian stores have them – even our local supermarket has them – never throw away your good cheese rinds). Bring the pan to a boil, reduce to a simmer and then let the pan bubble away gently for about 20 minutes.
Now, remove the rind and sprig of rosemary and then pass everything through the processor or blender to create a smooth soup. Remove from processor and put into soup pot. Now you add the rest of the cooked chickpeas.
At this point you have two choices – you can either add some more water or stock to the soup, bring it to a boil and cook your pasta directly in the soup, or you can cook your pasta separately in some fast boiling salted water and then add it to the soup, and let things rest for about 5 minutes and the serve. I prefer the latter method, and so did Gilda.
If I am using fresh pasta which cooks quickly, I cook it in the soup in which case some attentive stirring is in order or the pasta adheres itself to the bottom of the pan. If I am using dried pasta, such as ditalini, I cook it separately and then add it to the soup.
Lastly, you need to let the soup rest for a few minutes before you serve it; if things are too hot, the flavors are impossible to find.
Ingredients for 4:
½ lb dried chickpeas soaked overnight and then simmered for 2 hours until tender 1 lb canned chickpeas
6 T extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely diced
1 rib of celery finely diced
1 onion, peeled and finely diced
3 garlic toes, slightly crushed with edge of knife
2 T tomato paste
1 small sprig of rosemary
2-1/8 c vegetable, chicken, or rabbit stock or water the chickpeas were cooked in with more plain water added to make up the 21/8 c if necessary.
optional - 2-1/8 c extra water or stock only if you cook the pasta in the soup.
1 Parmigiano Reggiano rind
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
½ lb ditalini or any other tubular pasta
Best quality extra-virgin olive oil to top
Preparation:
Prepare your soffrito of finely chopped onion, garlic, carrot and celery, sautéing them gently and slowly in the oil in a large, heavy-based pan until soft, floppy, and translucent.
Then you add the tomato paste and a sprig of rosemary, stir, and then add 2/3 of your cooked chickpeas.
Stir again and then cover everything with stock or water, and throw in a Parmigiano Reggiano rind. Bring the pan to a boil, reduce to simmer, and then let the pan bubble away gently for about 20 minutes.
Remove the rind and rosemary and pass everything through the processor, or give it a blast with the blender to create a smooth soup.
At this point you add the rest of the cooked chickpeas and season to taste with salt [and freshly ground black pepper].
Now the two choices:
1. You can add some more water or stock to the soup, bring it to the boil and cook your pasta directly in the soup
or
2. You can cook your pasta separately in some fast boiling salted water and then add it to the soup, and then let things rest for about 5 minutes so the flavors mingle. Serve dribbled with more extra virgin olive oil and some freshly grated Parmigiano Regiano.
Mangia bene!

Arancini: Sicilian Rice Balls

Arancini

Our trip to Venezia in 2004 with Susana was a very memorable time with so many fond memories. Venezia is a food bastion – so many delights to the palate and you never cease to be amazed at what you can find. From the gelato, prosciutto, limoncello, and views of beautiful Venetian architecture, Venezia is an illustrious and timeless place to visit. There are amazing art museums, places to eat, and every street corner is interesting and unique. Getting lost in the beauty of Venezia is very easy, making it an unforgettable place to spend a few days at any time of year.
Hungry after walking around the city during much of the day, the three of us decided to stop by a deli-grocery store to purchase some food for our dinner. Susana spotted the arancini (little oranges) - they are called little oranges because that is what they resemble when they emerge from the fryer. Arancini were originally a Sicilian creation, now prevalent throughout Italy. In eastern Sicily they are known as arancini (plural) and arancino (singular). In the western part of the island, they’re known as arancine (plural) and arancina (singular).

In Venezia you will find many Italians of Sicilian extraction who are undoubtedly great cooks.
Short grain rice is essential for this recipe; the balls of rice will not be glutinous without it. Use risotto rice. The shapes and fillings vary over Sicily; as a very rough rule, the round arancini are made with a meat sauce; pear-shaped arancini contain chicken, and the oval ones are made with ham and cheese and béchamel sauce; however, the beauty of an arancino in Sicily or anywhere else is that you can only be sure when you take a bite!

Ingredients:

1 onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 rib of celery, finely chopped

1 lb minced beef

2 T tomato paste

About ½ c white wine

Sea salt
Peperoncini piccante tritato (red pepper flakes) or black pepper (optional)

About ½ lb frozen baby peas (less a tablespoon)

A handful of fresh basil, chopped

6 c chicken or rabbit stock

A little over 1 lb of arborio rice

2 t saffron soaked in warm water

About 2 oz butter

About ¼ lb grated pecorino cheese

1 cube of scamorza or mozzarella for each arancino

2 beaten eggs

Flour for coating

Breadcrumbs for coating

Olive or grape seed oil for frying (does not need to be extra-virgin for the olive oil)

Preparation:

Sauté the onion, celery and carrot in olive oil until soft. Add the beef, tomato paste, salt, and [peperoncini or pepper], and simmer for twenty minutes. Add the peas and re-season (it should be very well-seasoned). Add the basil and turn off the flame.

Boil the rice in the saffron and stock until cooked – it needs to absorb all the water and not stick to the pan; depending on the rice it will take fifteen or twenty minutes.

Stir in the butter and pecorino cheese, and let cool.

With oiled hands, shape rice into balls the size of a golf ball, flatten slightly and add the meat filling and a cube of scamorza or mozzarella cheese, and press more rice over the filling. Squeeze together to make a ball. Roll it first into the flour, and then the beaten egg, and lastly into breadcrumbs to coat well.

Deep-fry in hot, but not smoking, olive or grape seed oil until golden. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately, plain or with your favorite sauce. They can also be reheated in the oven.

Note: To make them simpler, omit the meat and peas mixture and stuff leftover risotto with cheese, then coat and deep fry.
Mangia bene!

Pasta con le Sarde

Pasta with Sardines

For a taste of Palermo try the pasta con le sarde. Every ingredient in this dish can be found on the island of Sicily. Freshness is the key to this dish’s success – all the ingredients need to be “singing.” Palermo is the birth place of pasta with sardines, a city with a lot of Saracen influence. Less than an hour is needed to prepare this pasta – don’t be reluctant to try it – the combination of ingredients will create a new taste sensation, one surely that you will want to experience again. It may even inspire you to see Palermo and the rest of Sicily!
Ingredients for 4:
2 lbs fennel bulbs, greens removed and reserved, bulb cut into sticks
3 lbs whole fresh sardines
Semolina flour, for coating
1 c extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, minced
1 – 28-ounce can whole San Marzano tomatoes, drained and chopped
3 T pine nuts, lightly toasted
3 T dried currants or raisins, soaked and drained
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
7-8 saffron strands
1 lb dried bucatini (spaghetti can be substituted)
Preparation:
In a hot frying pan, add olive oil and sauté fennel until caramelized.
Remove the heads of the sardines and pull out the backbones and entrails (save them for a fish stock). Select a few sardines, for garnish. Chop the rest of the sardines for the sauce, set aside. Season the sardines for garnish, to taste with salt and [pepper], and coat them with the semolina flour. In a small saucepan, heat ½ cup of olive oil over medium heat. When the oil begins to smoke, cook each flour-coated sardine until a light golden brown, about 1 minute on each side. Using a slotted spoon, remove the sardines from the pan and set them aside to drain on a paper towel or brown bag.
In the skillet with the caramelized fennel, add the onions, currants, tomatoes, pine nuts and saffron. Season, to taste, with salt and [pepper]. Bring the sauce briefly to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Add the reserved sardines and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the sardines have broken into pieces and are thoroughly mixed into the sauce, about 10 to15 minutes.
If the sauce appears too thick at this point, add a little of the pasta cooking water.
Bring 6 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of salt to a rolling boil. Add the bucatini and cook until tender but still al dente. Drain the cooked pasta into a large serving bowl, add ¾ of the sauce and stir to combine. Top with the remaining sauce and the fried sardines.
This pasta tastes best if allowed to rest for several minutes, soaking up the flavors of the sauce, before it is served. Keep the pasta covered during this waiting period, then garnish with reserved fennel fronds.

Italian Fried Sardines

Sarde Fritte
Fried fresh sardines are a Sicilian favorite antipasto item. Wally and I used to have them a lot. Fortunately in Louisville there is a very nice supermarket called Whole Foods which has a great fresh seafood department. Lots of the small fish are available there – I have been able to get sardines, fresh anchovies, smelts, you name it. If you have a grocery or fish market which carries this sort of seafood, this quick recipe is easy and tasty!
Ingredients for Batter:
11/8 c flour
1 T good extra-virgin olive oil
1 T brandy
1 egg, separated
A pinch of sea salt
Cold water
The Fish:
About 1 lb of fresh sardines, guts removed (with head on – you can eat the entire sardine; if you don’t wish to, decapitate them, open them flat, and remove the spine)
Preparation:
Stir the yolk into the flour with the other ingredients except the white, adding the water a bit at a time until you have a not too liquid batter. Stir the batter thoroughly, and then let it rest for several hours. When you are ready to use it, whip the white and fold it in. Then dip your ingredients and fry them in abundant hot oil (360º - 400ºF). This batter is also very good for frying fruits and vegetables.
When golden brown, remove and place them on brown bag or paper towels to drain. Serve warm with your favorite sauces.

Pesce Farcito senza Ossi

Simply put, this dish translates as stuffed fish without bones. It is based on the Philippine specialty, stuffed milkfish. The Philippine art of deboning and stuffing a fish is an old one. What attracted me about this recipe is that your dinner guests will truly enjoy it, regardless of their experience with eating fish – there are no bones in it! Aside from the absence of bones, the stuffing is loaded with Italian flavors, making it quite distinct from its Philippine cousin. It will get you raves! There is one caution, though – if you’re squeamish about gutting a fish, looking at its head or entrails, well, you may not be ambitious to make it. The final product, however, is similar to a terrine or pâté that goes excellently with some crusty Italian bread and a dry white wine – that might persuade you to make it anyway!
It is a very cost effective dish – you can use whatever whole fish is in season. Make sure it’s fresh – check the eyes – they should be very bright. If the eyes look glazed over, it’s been sitting too long – don’t get it, and make your fish another day – find out when the monger gets weekly shipments of fresh fish.
The length of your fish should be approximately 15 – 18 inches with a height of 5-8 inches (measured from the dorsal fin to the bottom of its belly). First let me brief you on how to debone and gut the fish – the illustrations above will also guide you through the process as well.
Deboning and Gutting your Fish
You will need to find a whole fish that has not been gutted. Have your fish monger scale it, and that’s it. Do not have the entrails removed yet, or anything else on the fish.
When you get home, remove it from newspaper wrapping and wash the fish, and remove any extra scales the monger may have missed (it’s usually the case that some scales were missed). Dry the fish when done.
On a work surface, lay the fish out with its dorsal fin facing you. Take your kitchen scissors and cut off the dorsal fin, cutting on back surface just below the fin. Discard or save the fin for fish stock. Then, with a sharp filet knife, cut along the length of its back from the nape of its neck to the tail. With the kitchen scissors, snip off any dorsal bone points that may be there and save them for future stock. With your scissors, snap the spine just before the head and then the tail. With your fingers, separate the fish flesh from the bone until you’re able to lift out the entire spine. When you remove the spine there will most likely be some fish flesh hugging the bone – remove as much of the fish as you can and place in a bowl for use later. Put the spine in with the other unusable parts and use for future stock.
Back to the fish – now remove any extra fish that is hugging onto the skin – that can be done in two different ways – I prefer to lift the skin just at the tip of its back and work down. You can also use a dull spoon or knife (like a butter knife) and gently scrape off, being careful not to puncture skin. Put all the fish flesh into the bowl you already started. At the very bottom of the fish (its belly) you will see the entrails – remove all the entrails, discard, except for the roe if any – the roe (usually a red, pink, or yellow color) is excellent poached in butter and put on some toast with a condiment, such as mayonnaise or mustard. Don’t waist it. If you have a cat or a piranha, you can feed the rest of the entrails to it.
You should now be left with a head and tail, both attached to an empty fish skin cavity (see image). Congratulations! I knew you could do it!
Refrigerate the carcass for use later. Now it’s time for the gourmet part!
Ingredients:
Fish from one gutted and deboned whole fish, boiled and chopped very fine, with all stray bones removed
1 c of Italian bread crumbs from stale Italian bread, chopped fine (food processor works well)
1 c grated Parmigiano Reggiano
A handful of fresh Italian parsley, chopped fine
6-7 sage leaves, chopped very fine
½ cup of golden raisins, soaked in hot fish or chicken stock for 2 hours (optional)
½ c of finely chopped cooked carrots
½ c of thawed frozen peas (optional)
½ minced onion, sautéed
3 garlic toes, minced and sautéed with onion
¼ c of minced celery heart, sautéed with onion and garlic (optional)
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Sea salt to taste
Pepper (optional)
Extra – virgin olive oil for sautéing onion, garlic, and celery, and for use on fish and the baking pan

Preparation:
In processor, mix by pulsing: the fish, bread crumbs, Parmigiano Reggiano, parsley, sage, [raisins], carrots, onion, garlic, [celery], any leftover oil from the sautéing, eggs, salt, and [pepper] until the mixture is slightly pasty with a little texture. Place mixture in bowl. Then, fold in the peas if desired.
Preheat your oven to 325ºF.
Now take out your good ol’ friend from the frig, Signore Pesce! You have developed quite a rapport with that fish, you know!
With your hands or a spoon (I prefer my clean hands), stuff the fish from head to tail with the delicious stuffing – putting stuffing in its head, too. At this point, you may either sew the fish opening, or tie kitchen string all around Signore Pesce. Drizzle some olive oil on a baking pan, place tied or sewn fish on top, and then drizzle olive oil on the side of the fish facing up. Rub it gently on the fish with your hands. Lightly salt the skin facing you.
Place Signore Pesce in the oven for anywhere between 30-45 minutes – check on it – you want it to be golden brown crispy.
Remove from oven, and let it have a good long rest for a couple of hours until completely cool. Then, I place the pan wrapped in foil into the frig overnight or for 2-3 hours.
Remove from frig, and with a sharp knife, cut ¼-½ inch slices diagonally, leaving the fish looking intact – they are delicious as pâté on bread, or eaten as one of your antipasto items. It goes well with cured salmon and roasted red peppers.
Buon appetito!

Coniglio in Agrodolce

Sicilia on a Plate: Sweet and Sour Rabbit
The ancient world is evident in Sicilian coking. This dish shows the influence of the Saracens who invaded and occupied this island for two centuries beginning in the 700s. Whereas the ancient Romans imported Sicilian gastronomy into their culture, the Saracens exported their culinary attributes to the Sicilians. Lemons, oranges, raisins, pasta (beginning as couscous – known as cuscusu in Sicilian), and sugar were introduced – the first sugar refinery in Europe was established at Trappeto, and Sicilian pastries and confections grew to be an art. Marzipan became popular and was exported to other parts of the world.
The Arabs also affected the Sicilian language – the Sicilian wine, Marsala, is from the Arabic words Marsah – el – Allah, translated as Port of God. Outside of the gastronomic benefits, the Arab occupation of Sicily was a time of economic prosperity, peace, and religious harmony among Arabs, Jews, and Christians. Without the influence of the Saracens, many of the delicious foods we know today as Italian specialties would probably not be known in Western cultures, such as this savory and delicious coniglio in agrodolce that Wally and I had at a hotel restaurant in Siracusa.
Although you can purchase rabbit in the U.S. in supermarkets, albeit frozen, rabbit is frequently hunted in many regions – there is nothing like fresh! Perhaps one of your neighbors is a rabbit hunter – if so, you might be able to work out a deal – let the neighbor hunt, and you cook. If you do, be sure to keep all the unused parts for making a rich stock later on.
Ingredients for 4:
1 rabbit, cleaned, boned, and in 8 or 10 pieces

About 10-11 oz of celery hearts, chopped up in very thin slices

About 3½ oz of olives stuffed with anchovies

A handful of capers, washed and squeezed of brine

1 shallot

About ½ a glass of red wine vinegar

About ½ a glass of extra-virgin olive oil

1 T sugar

About 1½ T tomato paste

Sea salt and pepper to taste

Flour as needed for dredging
Preparation:
Dredge the rabbit pieces in flour. Heat a frying pan with oil and sauté the shallot. Put the rabbit pieces in the pan and brown them slightly on a medium-high flame. Add the vinegar, sugar, and salt and pepper. At this point cover and let the rabbit become infused with the flavors of the ingredients you just added. Dilute the tomato paste with a tablespoon of water. Then put in the diluted tomato paste, olives, and capers, and cook for about a ½ hour on a medium flame.

Serve with a good red wine, such as a dolcetto from northern Italy.
Buon appetito!

Cured Salmon

Carpaccio di Salmone
This cured salmon recipe has been a favorite in this household for quite some time. Wally and I would have it at least once monthly, with some crusty artesian bread, green salad with extra-virgin olive oil and aged balsamic, and a good gavi wine – fit for royalty – I wouldn’t even mind offering such a course to the Pope. It makes an exquisite buffet item for your invited guests on a cold autumn evening, with the fireplace going and Vivaldi’s Four Seasons symphony playing in the background among your contented dinner guests.
If you like cured salmon, give this one a try. You may have a lot of variation in this recipe – the more you make it, the more liberty you will take in preparing this dish. Start with this one, and then, when you’re feeling confident, venture out into new culinary horizons!
Ingredients:
2 lbs. of wild-caught salmon or farm-raised from a reliable source, boned, and with skin on back – be sure the cut of salmon is from the widest part of the fish
¼ cup of chopped dill (you can substitute chopped fennel fronds, basil, tarragon, or any other herb you like)
¾ c of coarse salt (kosher or coarse sea salt will work)
½ c of natural sugar (Florida crystal sugar is great)
Finely grated zest of 1 organic orange
Finely grated zest of 1 organic lemon
¼ c of grappa, vodka, or gin
Preparation:
Wash salmon, checking carefully for any bones that may have been missed in the filleting. Remove any bones that may have remained. Dry salmon thoroughly with towels.
Mix together the herbs, salt, sugar, and citrus zests in a bowl. Place aside and prepare for the curing.
Have placed on your work surface two large pieces of Press ‘n Seal Wrap or Saran Wrap, perpendicular to each other (crisscross), and a plastic bag large enough to contain your salmon piece.
That completed, take your grappa (or vodka or gin) and mix it into the bowl with the other ingredients. Do this quickly and stay with it – don’t answer the phone, go to the restroom, go to the computer, or pick up your favorite novel!
Lay your salmon (backside down) on the Press ‘n Seal Wrap horizontally, and then with your hands place all the mixture on top of the pink salmon flesh, distributing equally. Wrap the fish tightly with the Press ‘n Seal, overlapping each piece of wrap, and then place the fish (backside down) into the plastic bag, making sure there are no air pockets.
Place the bag (with the fish backside down) on a large flat cookie sheet. Fill your tea kettle with cold water, and then place the kettle on top of the fish (this allows the cure to seep into that succulent fish). Place in frig for 24 hours.
Remove from frig, unwrap, and wash everything off your piece of salmon. Dry the fish completely with a towel. Slice diagonally into thin pieces – take as much as you need. Store unused salmon in a new plastic bag, making sure you don’t leave air pockets in bag. Salmon will keep for three days.
Note: This is excellent in salads, for brunch, or just to snack on. Delish! In some areas of Italy, they will make a cure with all of the ingredients except for the alcohol, and place in frig for 24 hours just as in this recipe. You might want to give it a try one day!
Buon appetito!

Neapolitan – Sicilian Treccia (Bread Tress) with Sausage, Scamorza, and Broccoli Rabe

Treccia con Salsiccia, Scamorza, e Friarelli

En route to Agrigento from Siracusa, Wally and I had made a car stop smack in the middle of Sicily in a town called Enna. Motor stops in Italy are unlike the boring ones in the U.S. American car stops are famous for loads of junk food whereas Italian ones along the autostrade are generally gastronomic gems – they are loaded with prosciutti crudi, salumi, home-made Italian cakes and pies, hot and cold food, you name it! Italians are fussy about what they consume.
One home-made delicious item that we had that day was the Treccia. The lady who served it to us indicated that she had made it herself, and that it was a specialty that combined Sicilian and Neapolitan ingredients. Her take was that the pizza – like ingredients and broccoli rabe (called friarelli in Napoli) are the Neapolitan influence, whereas the scamorza (sometimes substituted with Sicilian provola [not provolone] which is somewhere between Dutch Gouda and English Lancashire cheeses) is very Sicilian. She also pointed out that friarelli are hard to find outside Napoli, and that the broccoli rabe – very close to the friarelli in taste and texture, work well with the Treccia. Wally liked it a lot, and I wanted more, needless to say! I’ll tell you this – it put Enna on the culinary map for me – Enna became a synonym for deliciousness!

Ingredients:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita, using 00 flour exclusively, and adding an extra tablespoon or two of water to the flour to create stickier dough – thus making a softer pizza
2 lbs broccoli rabe
2 lbs of Italian sausage, mild
1 large red sweet bell pepper, diced
2 c of scamorza (or mozzarella), cubed
1 c white wine
2 T fennel fronds
1 healthy handful of grated Parmigiano Reggiano + extra for the end of braiding
Extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Preparation:
While the dough is rising, you can cook the sausage and broccoli rabe: clean the broccoli rabe and fry it with extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, and sweet bell pepper. Salt to taste. Drain very thoroughly. Then, fry the sausage with white wine and fennel fronds, making sure the wine evaporates and that the sausage browns. Crumble the sausage into small pieces when cooled.

Making the Treccia

Preheat oven to 425ºF. Roll out dough on parchment paper. Only lay the stuffing at the center of the dough. Distribute the broccoli rabe at the base of the stuffing, then the sausage, then the scamorza and a healthy sprinkling of grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Although the quantity of the stuffing can vary, make sure the layers are consistent with the broccoli rabe and the crumbled sausage. Make sure the broccoli rabe contain no liquid in the stuffing – if there’s liquid in the broccoli rabe, there is the danger of burning the pizza crust.

Cut the dough in strips on both sides of treccia, 1-1½ inches in thickness (see images). Begin to braid the strips as shown in images. At the conclusion of your braiding, sprinkle the treccia with Parmigiano Reggiano and then drizzle with olive oil.

Bake in oven until golden brown as in picture. Keep your eyes on it!
Remove from oven, let cool, slice, and then serve.
Buon appetito!

Melanzane alla Parmigiana di Gilda

Melanzane alla Parmigiana di Gilda
My mother’s eggplant parmigiana was a Sunday food attraction. My former brother-in-law, Marshall, was enamored with the dish. When my sister and Marshall would come over with their young children on a Sunday when Gilda was making this dish, she would literally have to make Marshall his own pan – he went wild with his fork. I have eaten this dish many times, and more often than not it is just passable, as the French say. Perhaps it’s the sauce, the quality of the eggplant, and/or the method of preparation that makes or breaks this dish. I have provided my mother’s recipe with some revisions, keeping in mind that I have indicated what she would have done – so you make the decision as to how you want to prepare it. If you’re looking for authenticity, then do as Gilda would have done. Either way, this dish is a terrific crowd pleaser. Wally and I have entertained with this dish at many of our dinners. By the way, it’s great as an antipasto or primo piatto.
Ingredients for 6:
5 or 6 eggplants
1 pot of sauce (Gilda’s gravy would be great – see Gilda’s Sunday Afternoon Gravy with Meatballs recipe)
3 eggs
Flour
Very fine Italian bread crumbs (do not use coarse crumbs)
A little Milk
3 lbs mozzarella, cut in small cubes
Plenty of grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Grape seed oil (Gilda used olive oil; when I need to cook at high temperatures, I use Italian Grape seed oil which doesn’t smoke)
Sea salt
1 branch Fresh basil, chopped roughly
Preparation:
Wash the eggplants, then cut off both ends of each eggplant, leaving skin on (Gilda used to peel them entirely – it’s up to you to decide which way you prefer). Then, cut the eggplants into slices of 1/8 to ¼ inch, putting each one into a colander and sprinkling with sea salt. Position a plate on top of the eggplant slices, and then put a weight on top of them (I use a filled tea kettle). Let them drip for at least 4 hours.
In the meantime prepare your favorite pot of tomato sauce – you can also just use garlic, oil, and crushed tomatoes. Prepare at least two quarts.
After 4 hours remove the eggplant slices and dry them, being sure to eliminate all the water. Then dredge each one in flour.
In a bowl beat the eggs; add a little milk and drop the eggplant in a little at a time. Then dredge each eggplant slice in the fine bread crumbs.
In a wide frying pan, pour in the oil and then the breaded eggplant slices. Continue this procedure until all eggplant slices are fried to golden brown.
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Take out a big pan (I use, like Gilda, a roasting pan because of its depth), pour some sauce on the bottom, and then place your first layer of eggplant slices. Then, spread some Parmigiano Reggiano, a little mozzarella, and a little sauce on top of them. Do another layer of eggplant just the same way you did the previous one, and repeat until all eggplant is used. Above the last layer, sprinkle Parmigiano Reggiano, cover with sauce, and crown with the remaining mozzarella. Lastly, spread basil over the parmigiana.
Lightly cover with foil, leaving an opening at one end, and bake for approximately 30-45 minutes, or until the parmigiana is bubbly.
Buon appetito!
Note: Gilda did not bother to dredge the eggplant slices with flour, but I have noticed that the flour helps eliminate any gaps in the breading that may occur during frying. You may skip this step if you wish.

Pizza con Salsiccia e Ricotta

Pizza con Salsiccia e Ricotta
Ricotta is a Zeoli favorite soft cheese. It has many uses in Italian kitchens both here and abroad. It is rich and creamy with a natural sweetness of its own. Cottage cheese, pretty decent in its own right, doesn’t match the superb flavor of this cheese. This pizza uses ricotta, Italian sausage, and mozzarella – three little princes of the Italian food kingdom. Chances are you have not had this particular combo, so give it a try. Believe me, your taste buds will yearn for more!
Ingredients for the dough for 4 pizze:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita
Ingredients for the Topping:
4 cups of Ricotta Cheese
8 sweet Italian pork sausage links, filled with parsley and cheese
3 cups of your favorite tomato sauce, heated (Gilda’s gravy would be great here – see Gilda’s Sunday Afternoon Gravy with Meatballs recipe)
1 lb of mozzarella, shredded
2 T of extra-virgin olive oil
Some sea salt (if needed)
Some black pepper (optional)
1 c grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Additional extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling on pizzas
Preparation:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita, for the preparation of pizza dough.
Preheat oven to 425ºF. Take the pizza dough and divide it into four pieces. Knead the dough briefly on a floured surface. Take your pizza peel and flour the surface generously to allow for easy transfer to the oven stone. Place dough on the peel, smacking your hand against it to flatten. Then using a rolling pin, stretch the dough out, creating a round shape – get your dough rolled out thin – no thicker than ¼ - 3/8 of an inch for a pizza con salsiccia e ricotta.
In a large skillet over medium-high flame, brown the sausage links on all sides. Turn off flame when done and transfer them to a plate. Slice in ¼ inch diagonal rounds when cool.
Drizzle a little olive oil on pizza, and then add a ¼ of the tomato sauce on top, spreading evenly throughout. Add salt and [pepper] only if needed (your sauce will probably be well-seasoned already). Place in oven and bake for about 7 minutes or until edges just start to turn golden.
At that point remove pizza from oven, and sprinkle ¼ of the Parmigiano Reggiano on top, then ¼ of the mozzarella, ¼ of the sausage rounds, and ¼ of the ricotta – put little gobs of the ricotta throughout the pizza as seen in image. Return to oven for about 5 minutes or until mozzarella is melted and other ingredients are hot.
Remove from oven, let rest for 5 minutes, then slice and serve!
Buon appetito!

Pizza ai Funghi

Pizza ai Funghi
This variation of pizza is for mushroom lovers. Wild mushrooms in this recipe, for our purposes, refer to crimini, shitake, button, and/or oyster mushroom varieties sold at most markets. Porcini, morel, and lobster mushrooms also work well. If you are skilled at getting real wild mushrooms from the forest, go for it – I am not. I would not suggest you do that unless you are absolutely skilled in mushroom foraging.
The combination of mushrooms, goat cheese, truffle oil and chives will detonate your taste buds and take you to the gastronomic realm of no return! This is not conventional pizza – it is the ambrosia of pizza fit for Capitoline gourmands!
Ingredients for the dough for 4 pizze:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita
Ingredients for the Topping:
24 oz of goat cheese at room temperature
3 lbs of “wild” mushrooms, sliced
Two handfuls of fresh chives, chopped up
8 T of extra-virgin olive oil
1 t sea salt
1 t black pepper (optional)
4 t of truffle oil
Preparation:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita, for the preparation of pizza dough.
Preheat oven to 425ºF. Take the pizza dough and divide it into four pieces. Knead the dough briefly on a floured surface. Take your pizza peel and flour the surface generously to allow for easy transfer to the oven stone. Place dough on the peel, smacking your hand against it to flatten. Then using a rolling pin, stretch the dough out, creating a round shape – get your dough rolled out thin – no thicker than ¼ - 3/8 of an inch for a pizza ai funghi.
In a medium skillet over medium heat, sauté the mushrooms in the oil for 1 minute. Turn off flame and remove pan from stove. Add truffle oil to the mushrooms and mix thoroughly.
Using 8 oz of the goat cheese per pizza, distribute the cheese over the dough. Then, spread a ¼ of the mushrooms and olive – truffle oil mixture on top of that, leaving a 1-inch border. Sprinkle on salt and [pepper]. Bake the pizza for 10 to 14 minutes or until the edges are puffed and the crust is crisp and browned. Remove from oven and shower the pizza with chopped chives. Wait 5-10 minutes, slice and serve!
Buon appetito!

Pizza agli Spinaci

Pizza agli Spinaci
Spinach lovers will dig into this delightful pizza – it’s a great way to get people to eat spinach! Wally had this once, and another time he had it with dino kale which substituted for the spinach – delicious in both instances.
Ingredients for the dough for 4 pizze:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita
Ingredients for the Topping:
4 large garlic toes, crushed or finely chopped
8 T olive oil
4 bags fresh spinach, steamed, or 4 boxes (10 oz each) frozen spinach, thawed and well drained
1 t sea salt
1 t black pepper (optional)
1 lb mozzarella cheese, shredded or thinly sliced
8 T grated Parmesan cheese
Preparation:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita, for the preparation of pizza dough.
Preheat oven to 425ºF. Take the pizza dough and divide it into four pieces. Knead the dough briefly on a floured surface. Take your pizza peel and flour the surface generously to allow for easy transfer to the oven stone. Place dough on the peel, smacking your hand against it to flatten. Then using a rolling pin, stretch the dough out, creating a round shape – get your dough rolled out thin – no thicker than ¼ - 3/8 of an inch for a pizza agli spinaci. In a medium skillet over low heat, cook the garlic in the oil for 1 minute.
Stir in the spinach, salt and [pepper]. Cover and cook the mixture for 2 minutes. Let cool slightly.
Spread a ¼ of the spinach mixture over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border. Top with a ¼ of the mozzarella and then sprinkle with a ¼ of the Parmesan cheese. Bake the pizza for 10 to 14 minutes or until the edges are puffed and the crust is crisp and browned.
Buon appetito!

White Pizza with Scamorza, Rosemary, Garlic, and Oil

Pizza Bianca con Scamorza, Rosmarino, Aglio, e Olio
A refreshing change from the numerous tomato-based toppings, this pizza uses smoked scamorza, rosemary, and olive oil for topping. You can use smoked mozzarella instead of the smoked scamorza, and substitute fresh oregano in place of the rosemary.
Scamorza Cheese
A little about scamorza – it’s a close cousin to mozzarella, a bit firmer, made mostly from cow’s milk, and melts better in the oven than mozzarella. I’ve found that the smoked scamorza adds a great flavor to your white pizzas. The smoked version is called scamorza affumicata.
This cheese’s fresh curd matures in its own whey for several hours to allow acidity to develop by the process of lactose being converted to lactic acid. Cheese makers generally form the cheese into a round shape and then tie a string around the mass one third of the distance from the top and hang to dry. The resulting shape is pear-like. This is sometimes referred to as "strangling" the cheese. The cheese is usually white in color unless smoked. When smoked, the color is almond with a lighter interior.
Scamorza can be substituted for mozzarella in most dishes. In Italy, scamorza is more commonly made in the south rather than the north. Technically, scamorza is a product of Puglia, where it is made throughout Bari province. However, it is available across the country, both in the unsmoked and smoked forms.
Some trivia – scamorza is a favorite cheese of the Hazleton, Pennsylvania area and is found on cheese steaks, salads and French fries. In Hazleton, the cheese is pronounced "Scah-muhtz"
Scamorza is also the cheese of choice for a pizza topping in Bridgeport, Connecticut. Elsewhere in the state, mozzarella is used.
Ingredients for the dough for 4 pizze:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita
Ingredients for the Topping:
1 lb of scamorza affumicata (or smoked mozzarella), cut in thin slices (1/8 - ¼ inch)
3 sprigs of rosemary, leaves removed from branches
4 toes of garlic, minced
Some sea salt
½ c grated Parmigiano Reggiano
A little extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle
Preparation:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita, for the preparation of pizza dough.
Preheat oven to 425ºF. Take the pizza dough and divide it into four pieces. Knead the dough briefly on a floured surface. Take your pizza peel and flour the surface generously to allow for easy transfer to the oven stone. Place dough on the peel, smacking your hand against it to flatten. Then using a rolling pin, stretch the dough out, creating a round shape – get your dough rolled out thin – no thicker than ¼ - 3/8 of an inch for a pizza bianca con scamorza, rosmarino, aglio, e olio. Drizzle a little olive oil over dough surface, and then sprinkle a little salt and a ¼ of the Parmigiano Reggiano. Distribute ¼ of the minced garlic and ¼ of the rosemary on top of that. Finally, take ¼ of the scamorza slices and distribute equally over the pizza. Place the pizza on the oven pizza stone for about 10-14 minutes, depending on your oven (check often to avoid burning cheese). Remove from oven and place on wooden board, and let cool for 10 minutes. Slice and serve!
Buon appetito!

Pizza Semplice con Prosciutto Crudo

Pizza Semplice con Prosciutto Crudo
This is similar to the Margherita, but contains only three items for the topping: tomatoes, aged provolone cheese, and prosciutto di Parma. It makes a stunning display on a buffet table – the prosciutto captures hungry eyes! It is easy to make and follows procedures of the Margherita.
Ingredients for the dough for 4 pizze:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita
Ingredients for the Topping:
1 lb of aged provolone cheese, shredded
8 peeled Roma tomatoes, seeded, and strained
A little extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle
16 slices of Prosciutto di Parma cut thin as seen in picture
Preparation:
See Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita, for the preparation of pizza dough.
Preheat oven to 425ºF. Take the pizza dough and divide it into four pieces. Knead the dough briefly on a floured surface. Take your pizza peel and flour the surface generously to allow for easy transfer to the oven stone. Place dough on the peel, smacking your hand against it to flatten. Then using a rolling pin, stretch the dough out, creating a round shape – get your dough rolled out thin – no thicker than ¼ - 3/8 of an inch for a pizza semplice con prosciutto crudo. Drizzle a little olive oil over dough surface, then take a ¼ of the tomato sauce and put on dough. Distribute salt and a ¼ of the aged provolone and then place pizza on the oven pizza stone for about 10-14 minutes, depending on your oven. Remove from oven and place on wooden board, and let cool for 10 minutes. Arrange 4 prosciutto di Parma slices on the pizza. Slice and serve!
Buon appetito!

Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita

Pizza di Napoli: La Margherita
This is the pizza I make at home – many a friend has had it, and it always gets compliments. When Wally and I were in Sicily, we visited Agrigento along the southern coast of the island where you find the ancient temples of the Greeks pretty much intact. If you have an interest in ancient ruins, Sicilia is loaded with them – if you are an adventuresome spirit, you might go by Sicilian donkey cart up to see the Valley of the Temples – che bella vista!
There was a restaurant we went to where the cuoco (cook) was a Napoletano. He divulged to me the secret of good pizza-making – namely, good flour, good water, and good hands. He also shared how he worked the ingredients and when he would add them.
Flour is what makes or breaks a pizza – I have provided a little information to guide you on flour selection if you are interested in making delicious pizza on your own. I have chosen the very simple pizza Margherita of Napoli, which later became the focus of North American mania. Very few American pizzerias, however, can replicate this Neapolitan specialty like the way they do in the Zeoli fatherland.
About Flour and Making Authentic Italian Pizza
Italian flour makers (like all flour makers in Europe) don't classify flours in terms of their gluten content. Rather, they classify them by ash content and by grind. Italian Type "2" flour is a coarsely ground high-ash flour (what cooks in the U.S. might call a "meal"). Types "1" and "0" are medium-ash, medium grind flours for hearth breads. Type "00" is the low-ash fine grind that's used for many whiter breads (including pizza), some pastry, and even pasta and gnocchi. In general it's roughly equivalent to our own all-purpose flour. It's fairly high in protein (gluten), and good for a lot of things.
So then if it's high in gluten, why do some pizza makers substitute extremely low gluten flour for Italian "00" flour in their pizza crust recipes? The answer is that not all gluten is created equal. Some varieties of wheat contain gluten that is both hard and springy (like hard red wheat from the U.S.), and make very elastic doughs. Other types contain gluten that's hard but not springy (Italian durum for pasta, for example) which produce doughs that are firm but not very elastic. Most Italian flours are of the latter variety, which is why most real Italian pizza makers don't use this flour type with their dough, but instead prefer to stretch their pizzas into shape.
What does it all mean? It means that Italian flour has "bite" but not "chew". American high-gluten flour has both "bite" and "chew", but that's not necessarily a good thing, depending on who you talk to. Some American pizza makers, hoping to more closely approximate a Neapolitan-style pizza, opt to eliminate the "chew" of American flour by employing low gluten flour, sacrificing the "bite" in the process. It's a trade-off that some people really like. On the other hand, spoiled cooks like me who have had the real thing and know the difference in quality output, go for the genuine ingredient.
For my pizzas, I use half all-purpose (which is like type “0”) and half “00.” I am able to obtain 00 flour in Louisville. If you’re unable to find any in your locations, you can get a near approximation of the 00 four by combining 2 parts all-purpose flour and 1 part cake flour (sometimes known as white pastry flour). That is how the late and great chef Julia Child made her equivalent. 00 flours are available now at most metropolitan locations – if there’s an Italian store near you, chances are they have it or can order it for you.
Ingredients for 4 Pizze (Italian plural for pizza)

1 lb of all-purpose flour
1 lb of 00 flour
2 c of Italian lukewarm spring water, plus a couple of tablespoons more
1 oz of active dry yeast, dissolved in lukewarm water (about ¼ c)
1 T sea salt
2 T extra-virgin olive oil
1 pinch of sugar
Ingredients for Topping:

1 lb or more of mozzarella di bufala in thin slices
8 peeled Roma tomatoes, seeded, and crushed, and with remaining tomato pulp mixed together with crushed parts

A little extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle
Lots of fresh basil
Preparation:
Pour the flours on your pizza working surface. Create a crater in the middle of flour, pouring into it little by little the dissolved yeast and the remaining water, working the flour and water with your hands until you get workable dough. When the dough is pliable, add the olive oil and salt and knead very energetically until the dough becomes smooth and elastic.
Finally, add the pinch of sugar. Knead it thoroughly into the dough. Once finished with kneading, shape the dough into a ball. Then, sprinkle the bottom of a tall pot with flour and position the dough at the bottom. Cover the pot with a lid, and then cover the lid with a pastry cloth. Let rise for 2-3 hours.
Preheat oven to 425ºF. Take the pizza dough and divide it into four pieces. Knead the dough briefly on a floured surface. Take your pizza peel and flour the surface generously to allow for easy transfer to the oven stone. Place dough on the peel, smacking your hand against it to flatten. Then using a rolling pin, stretch the dough out, creating a round shape – get your dough rolled out thin – no thicker than ¼ - 3/8 of an inch for a Margherita pizza. Drizzle a little olive oil over dough surface, then take a ¼ of the tomatoes and put on dough. Add salt and then place the pizza on the oven pizza stone for about 10-14 minutes, depending on your oven. When the pizza is at the halfway point of being done, lift it out the oven with your peel and top with the ¼ of the mozzarella and basil, and return to the oven for about 5 minutes until edges of crust have that rustic look. Take out of oven and place on wooden board, and serve it hot to your hungry guest.
Mangia bene!

Sausage, Peppers, and Onions the Way We Remember

Salsicce con Peperoni e Cipolle
Sausage with peppers and onions is now a very popular dish throughout the U.S. At fairs, carnivals, and beaches throughout the country you can find a vendor selling Italian sausage and pepper sandwiches. As kids we ate a lot of sausage and peppers, at least twice a month – it’s a quick meal that’s inexpensive to make. I recall a lot of family gatherings where the scent of sausage and peppers was all around – this dish is a crowd pleaser and great for informal buffets.
What makes this humble dish so good is really the quality of the sausage. Depending on where you live, the kind of Italian sausage you get varies. I know that in Louisville, Kentucky, I just can’t rediscover the wonderful sausages that were available at Long Island delis and supermarkets. My sister Adele used to live right near an Italian grocery mart called Meat Farms – the sausages were made fresh every day. They made sweet Italian sausage rings, links, hot Italian sausage rings and links, and even had sweet rings and links filled with parsley and Italian cheeses, and a variety of other types.
In Louisville, you will only find “Italian hot sausage” and “Italian mild sausage.” Truth be told, the name is the only aspect that’s Italian – Having lived in the New York metro area and travelled throughout Italy, I cannot recall any type of “Italian sausage” that looks like what’s being sold here. Aside from looks, their taste is nothing like “the real McCoy.” “Italian sausage” may be written on the package, but it sure doesn’t exist inside it!
If any of you are encountering a similar problem finding authentic Italian sausage, there is hope: I purchase mine from Landi’s Brooklyn Pork Store – they are reputable and reasonably priced; the meat always arrives on time and frozen. The sausages are made fresh to order the day before they are to be mailed, then frozen, and then immediately sent out via UPS – the order takes exactly two days to arrive from the day they send it. Believe me they are delicious – I get the parsley and cheese links and rings – they taste just like the ones at Meat Farms in Bay Shore, L.I. When you make sausage and peppers with these, you, indeed, did make the real dish!
By the way, they also supply me with veal cutlets, thinly cut and from the leg – they are $12.95 per pound – very reasonable – and 10 cutlets to a pound – they look and taste like the New York ones. They are very tender and great in all veal dishes. If you’re interested, their web address is: http://www.brooklynporkstore.com/.
Here is my recipe for sausage and peppers – one thing I do differently from the way Sam and Gilda made them is that I grill the sausage first in a grilling pan until crispy, and then I cut them up and add them to the onions and peppers. Sam and Gilda would fry them in the pan and either leave the links whole or halve them before cooking; if they used a sausage ring, they would cut it up before cooking as well. Either method is fine – delicious both ways.
Ingredients for 4-6:
1½-2 lbs of ring Italian sweet cheese and parsley sausage, grilled on both sides (that’s my favorite – you can use whichever you prefer)
2 T of sausage fat (to be collected during the grilling)
2 medium red onions, sliced (use whatever onions you prefer)
6 toes of garlic, cut up in small chunks
3-4 large bell peppers, cut into pieces, a variety of colors (you can use all of one color if desired)
4 sprigs of fresh oregano, leaves removed and cut up, or 1 T dried
About 1 c of your favorite tomato sauce (optional – in Syosset we used to prefer it without – it tastes good either way – if you’re in a passionate mood, use the sauce)
Olive oil for frying (need not be extra-virgin)
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano for topping (I don’t know what I’d do without this cheese!)
Preparation:
Poke a few holes into the sausage every three inches or so to allow the fat to drip while the sausage is cooking. On a grilling pan cook the sausage until brown on all sides, reserving about 2 tablespoons of that sausage fat – you’ll use it later. When done, place sausage ring or links on a platter and put aside.
In a very large frying pan, pour enough olive oil to coat the bottom. Put in the oregano and turn the flame to medium. When hot, put in the onions, garlic, peppers, and sausage fat you collected earlier. Fry the mixture, turning every-so-often to prevent sticking.
In the meantime, take the cooked sausage and cut it into 1 or 2 inch pieces (Sam and Gilda would sometimes cook the links whole or cut them in half; if they used the sausage ring they would cut every 1 to 2 inches, keeping in mind they would pan fry the sausages at the beginning, then periodically pour out from the pan any water produced by the sausages).
As soon as the peppers, onions, and garlic are soft and nearly caramelized, add your sausage pieces to the pan, mixing everything together. Let simmer on low for about 10 minutes to allow flavors to interact. Then, if I do not plan to use the sauce, I like to let the sausage and peppers rest for an hour before serving – the flavors continue to develop through and through during that hour. Then I would reheat before serving guests and top their portions with grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
If you plan on using the sauce, then add it after the 10 minutes of simmering. Let it cook very slowly uncovered for about 20 minutes on a low flame, putting on the lid halfway to prevent splattering (be careful – check lid often because condensation can occur, allowing liquid to fall into the sausage and peppers – you don’t want that unless you desire soup).
Then, remove lid and turn off flame. I like letting mine rest a while, but you can serve immediately if you wish. Top with that wonderful grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
Serve with good, crusty Sicilian bread with the sesame seeds – have the bread all cut up to allow your guests to dunk it into the juices – just delish.
Buon appetito!

Vegetable Quiche with Prosciutto

Quiche di Verdure e Prosciutto Crudo
This Italian quiche is one that I learned from a Sicilian neighbor at the flat in Siracusa – it came from her aunt who lives in a small village not far from Roma. Wally really liked this one and told me he wanted it again – he thought it was French. Unlike the French quiche, this one uses puff pastry for the crust rather than a pâte brisée. What is nice about this one is that you’re free to put other kinds of ingredients in it. It is wonderful eaten warm or cold as a primo piatto or antipasto – you would cut it accordingly – larger pieces as a first course, or in small squares for hors d’oeuvres.
Ingredients for 8:
1 box of frozen puff pastry, thawed for about 1½ hrs. in frig
4 eggs
About 1 c of cream
1 lb of zucchini, sliced in rounds
About ¼ lb of peas, fresh or frozen
About ¼ lb of carrots, diced
About ¼ lb of potatoes, cubed
About 6 slices of prosciutto di Parma, sliced thinly
Olive oil for frying (does not need to be extra-virgin)
Sea salt to taste
Ground pepper to taste (optional)
Preparation:
Boil the cubed carrots for about 10 minutes. Remove from saucepan and set aside in bowl.
Cook the cubed potatoes in enough salted water for about 10 minutes. Do likewise with the peas.
Cut the zucchini in rounds and fry them in oil until slightly brown.
Salt the vegetables and let them cool.
In an aluminum foil tin (one that would be used as a lasagna tin, square, with sides no higher than 2 inches – see image) lined with parchment paper, stretch out the puff pastry, making a border along the sides of just under an inch (see image).
Lay out the prosciutto slices on the bottom, distributing evenly.
Then, lay out the zucchini, carrots, potatoes, and peas evenly on top of the prosciutto.
Mix with a whisk the eggs and cream. Add salt and [pepper] and pour on top everything in the aluminum tin. With the remaining puff pastry make little strips and lay on top of quiche in a crosshatch pattern (see image)
Bake at 350°F for around 30 minutes.
Cool and serve.
Buon appetito!

Gilda's Stuffed Artichokes

Carciofi Ripieni di Gilda
One of my all-time favorite vegetables is the artichoke, so misunderstood by so many. All bias aside, most of the laments come from the English-speaking world. Most of American eating tradition comes from the English who don’t have a very good culinary reputation. Food items requiring a bit of patience and time are usually not welcome at Anglo tables. No offense intended to Anglos, I hope this recipe will change your mind about eating this delicious vegetable – so ancient and unique – and have it become a regular in your diet. There are many ways of eating artichokes, but here we’ll focus on Gilda’s stuffed gems. The first thing you want to do is find good artichokes – they come in different sizes, but for her recipe you need large ones, about 1½ times the size of your fist. Aside from the right size, you need to examine its freshness – look out for discolored leaves – they should be a distinct olive green and have no blemishes. Feel the stem at the bottom of the head – it should be firm to the touch; if it’s pliable, it’s been sitting too long, and the vendor should just make a gift of it to you!
Once you have found the right sized artichokes, you are ready to start your gastronomic adventure and become an official gourmand and gourmet.
The first thing you need to do is prepare the artichoke. First, get a sharp chef’s knife and trim the crown of the vegetable. You trim off about ½ to ¾ of an inch from the top so that the pointy ends of the leaves are gone. Be careful, the points are sharp – hold your hand flat on the vegetable without moving it, and with the other, cut. Then, look at the outside leaves – the ones on the outer edge towards the bottom – remove them – they are too small to do anything with. You might have 3 or 4 leaves like that at most. Oh, and one other thing – if there are any leaves that still have pointy ends, get your kitchen scissors and snip off the points on those remaining leaves.
For the last item of trimming, you need to cut the protruding stem off the vegetable at the base of the head. You cut enough so that the artichoke head will stand on its own. Now you have completed the trimming part. Save all your trimmed artichoke parts – put them in a plastic bag with your other vegetable refuse (carrot skins, broccoli stalks, celery parts, etc.) and store in freezer – they make excellent vegetable broth!
The next step is to stretch your artichokes. To stretch them, take your fingers and work them from the interior of the artichoke pushing out. When you do this to the artichoke, you are opening the spaces between the leaves – that is where your stuffing is going to go. Go all around the artichoke stretching the leaves – push your fingers in and then push out (See the small picture of the artichoke being stretched).
Now you’re in business, and the rest is child’s play. The Zeoli family loves its carciofi (the Italian for artichokes), and we were lucky to have had such delicious food growing up. When I think of what so many Americans eat on the run, I feel pity for their taste buds!
Ingredients for 2:
2 large artichokes, cleaned, trimmed, and stretched
1½ c grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1½ c bread crumbs from old Italian bread (you can use panko or commercial plain Italian bread crumbs)
2 T dried parsley or a handful of fresh, chopped fine
6 toes of garlic, cut into small chunks
¼ t ground pepper (optional)
1 t sea salt
Aged balsamic vinegar
Extra virgin olive oil
Preparation:
Mix together in bowl the Parmigiano Reggiano, bread crumbs, salt, [pepper], parsley, and garlic. Then, take some olive oil and drizzle a small amount into the artichokes, from the top – I’d say no more than 2 t for each one.
Using your hands, take some of the stuffing mixture and place inside the artichokes, making sure that all crevices are being filled in with all that good stuffing mixture. Don’t be shy – fill in as much as possible – keep pushing down with your fingers – you are developing your manual skills! Do this until all the stuffing is where it belongs – inside those beautiful ‘chokes. When stuffing them, I’d advise having a plate underneath to capture the stuffing that falls out. Just put it back in if a little falls out – that’s to be expected.
Once stuffed, get a pot large enough to hold your artichokes. Place them in the pot, standing up. Fill pot with just enough water to come halfway up the artichokes. You can add a teaspoon of salt to the water. Put a lid on the pot and bring to a boil at medium-high flame. As soon as its starts to boil, lower to a simmer. Simmer for approximately 45 minutes – the aromas will permeate through the house. When they’re done, they look relaxed and are a lighter green in appearance. Shut flame off and remove from stove. Let them rest with the lid on for 10 minutes.
Remove lid and with a spoon take a little of the broth and drizzle over the tops of artichokes. Take the artichokes out of pot and place each one in a serving dish. Drizzle a little olive oil over each one; then, get some good, aged balsamic (not the cheap one – the one that is more expensive and aged longer) and give each one an ever-so-quick drizzle.
Serve it, making sure to provide your guest with an empty plate for the leaves and artichoke hair. Also provide a dipping dish containing a little aged balsamic vinegar.
How to Eat Artichokes
Eating Gilda’s gems is an art. The fact that you got this far in the recipe tells me you’re a serious eater. That’s a good thing when it comes to these lovely vegetables.
First, you are going to approach the outer leaves and work your way to the interior, leaf by leaf. Take a leaf; dip it into aged balsamic (if desired), and then place it in your mouth, scraping the delicious stuffing with your front teeth and then withdrawing the leaf. Keep in mind that the base of each leaf contains “artichoke meat” which can be scraped with your front teeth as well. Once you’re done with a leaf, place it in the empty plate provided. Do this for all leaves until you get to a part that can no longer be scraped – these are the small leaves surrounding the hair. Of course eat the stuffing surrounding them. Remove these small leaves with your fingers and place them in discard bowl with the other leaves.
Now you’re left with the hair of the artichoke. With a teaspoon, or better yet a grapefruit spoon (it has a serrated edge), remove the hair, starting from an outer edge. Position the spoon in between the hair and the head, and lift off the hair. It will come off in chunks. When all is removed, you’re left with the artichoke head. That is the true “pearl.” This part is eaten in its entirety – it is the “filet mignon” of the artichoke. Cut it into bite-sized pieces with your fork and knife – it should be very tender. Dip it into a little aged balsamic or olive oil, and you will enter heaven. It has a natural sweetness, and leaves your mouth with such a pleasant taste. It is your gastronomic reward on a job well-done.

A Final Note:

This dish is one that takes me right back to childhood - my grandmother Adelina taught me how to eat it - I was about 6 or 7 years old at the time. Whenever I see an artichoke, I get transported down memory lane. At first eating artichokes was a little intimidating and frustrating, so I can understand how you might feel if you haven't had one before. At first I was "all thumbs" but with encouragement I got better, and just look at me now! You will become an artichoke aficionado, too! Just give it time.

Sam Zeoli’s Frittata with Eggs, Potatoes, Onions, and Italian Sausage

Frittata di Sam Zeoli con Uova, Patate, Cipolle, e Salsicce
Many years ago when my father Sam used to work in Manhattan during the week, the weekends were the only times I didn’t see him wearing a suit with tie and a fedora. On Saturdays and Sundays he would dress in casual pants, wear good walking shoes, and usually have on a plaid sports shirt. On several occasions he would get inspired to make us all an Italian-style brunch on Saturday morning. He never said much about cooking, but he would just take the plunge into the frying pan and get started. He was actually a very good cook – whatever he did make was always flavorful and definitely Italian. One time while I was making myself some eggs, he advised me to use both the butter and olive oil – he knew this from his European upbringing and his travels overseas – as he told me on two occasions.
His cooking had a distinct aroma – he would combine the butter and oil when he made his frittatas. Adele and I would usually toast the bread and set the table in the kitchen to get ready for one delicious frittata. Sometimes as an accompaniment to the frittata, he would take out a can of caponatina to have with bread rather than use butter. I remember that the salsiccia and Parmigiano Reggiano gave the kitchen a very pleasant aroma. Whenever I make this frittata at home, I am taken back to the Syosset kitchen and think about the good foods that came out of it.
This is my dad’s frittata to the best of my memory – if I am missing something, don’t hesitate to post.
Ingredients for 4:
8 large eggs, beaten
A little water to add to the eggs
Sea salt and pepper to taste (I am partial to sea salt – use any salt you want)
2 T butter (he only used real butter)
2 T extra virgin olive oil, plus 1 T extra for the salsicce
A little dried parsley (about 2 teaspoons) or use a handful of fresh, chopped
About ½ c of grated Parmigiano Reggiano, give or take a few ounces, plus some extra for topping
2-3 salsicce or about ½ lb, either sweet or mild
1 large red or green pepper
1 medium sized onion, sliced thinly
3 medium-sized potatoes, sliced thinly
A little of the fat from the salsicce
Preparation:
Place 1 T of olive oil into a big frying pan (Daddy used to use the big Revere frying pan that Gilda used for sausage and peppers).
Place salsicce in pan and brown thoroughly on medium-high flame. Remove when done and set aside, keeping them warm.
Leave about a tablespoon or two of sausage fat in the pan. Add the onions and peppers, and sauté them until soft on medium flame. Remove from pan and place in bowl, setting them aside, keeping them warm.
If you need additional oil in pan, add it; otherwise, place potatoes in the pan and cook them until golden brown, turning them as necessary.
In the meantime take your eggs and beat them in a bowl with a little water. To that, add salt, pepper, parsley, and Parmigiano Reggiano. Mix thoroughly.
Take the cooked sausage and cut it into slices, the size of gambling chips like the ones they use in black jack at gambling resorts.
When potatoes are done, pour egg mixture into pan, then the sausage pieces (arrange them), and then the cooked peppers and onions. Distribute everything equally in the pan. Cook on low flame, covering most of the pan, for about 10-15 minutes or until frittata is done (the top should have no liquid egg). To expedite cooking and prevent burning, take a spatula and lift an edge of frittata in pan, tilting the pan towards spatula to allow the uncooked egg to reach the bottom of pan.
Divide up frittata, sprinkling each piece with additional grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
Serve with crusty Italian bread, and possibly caponatina.
Buon appetito from Sam.

Green Beans for the Gods of Siracusa

Fagiolini per gli Dei di Siracusa
I was perusing through my diary from our trip to Sicilia in 2006-2007 and came across a pleasant recollection of a food discovery. After marketing on a sunny Tuesday morning in Siracusa, as Wally and I were walking back to the flat with our food items, I commented on the thyme growing in pots alongside the railing overlooking the roof of the ancient Temple of Athena. I rubbed the leaves with my fingers and took a whiff – wow! It had a savory-lemony scent that was so refreshing. That was a culinary moment to seize! That was it – the green beans we were having for the pranzo would have lemon and thyme as seasoning to accompany the sword fish! I often get inspirations like that – I could be walking somewhere, capturing a particular fragrance, and ding! I call them gastronomic snapshots. Sometimes those snapshots become a theme for a meal. Anyway, the simplicity of this recipe is refreshingly delicious and was a dignified compliment to the fish we enjoyed that day, thanks to the gods! Give it a try yourselves!

Ingredients:
¾ lb green beans

4 toes of garlic, crushed slightly with your hand

1 lemon, as much juice as you like from it

1 small bunch of fresh thyme

Sea salt

Extra-virgin olive oil

Preparation:

Steam the green beans until half-cooked.Heat up some olive oil with the garlic. After a couple of minutes you add the beans, salt and the thyme.

Sauté the beans for about 5-10 minutes until they are as done as you want them. Just before you take the pan off the stove, you squeeze some lemon juice over it, stir and serve!

Gilda's Stuffed Peppers

Peperoni Ripieni di Gilda
Stuffed peppers were a pretty popular dish in the Zeoli family – everybody liked all kinds of peppers at home. Italians love their peppers – they prepare them using various cooking methods – pickling, boiling, frying, braising, grilling, and baking. They are nutritionally sound, and raw, they have a higher vitamin C content than do oranges!
To make stuffed peppers, Gilda would use green or red bell peppers. In the summer you can find them in abundance. There are more color varieties of peppers today – orange, yellow, and purple – you can use any color pepper for her dish. What set Gilda’s stuffed peppers apart from any others was the use of pepperoni as an ingredient in the stuffing. If you can’t tolerate the spiciness of the pepperoni, you can use soppresata or Genoa salami in diced little pieces instead – they give the meat an explosion of flavor that will make you come back for more. For those of you who cannot eat peppers, use cabbage instead – Gilda’s recipe can be used for making stuffed cabbages as well.
Ingredients:
6 small peppers (see photos for size)
1 c cooked rice (1/3 uncooked)
1 lb ground meat (a mixture of beef, pork, and veal)
A handful of fresh parsley, chopped or 2 T of dried parsley
2 t dried oregano or the leaves from 3 sprigs, chopped
½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
½ c bread crumbs made from stale Italian bread
2 eggs, slightly beaten
Fresh basil, chopped, or a couple of teaspoons of dried
Salt and [pepper] to taste
1 c of diced Italian pepperoni or Genoa salami or soppresata (get the real thing from the Italian deli)
Extra-virgin olive oil for lubricating peppers
1½ quarts of your favorite pasta sauce (Gilda’s gravy recipe would be great here!)
Preparation:
Cook rice and preheat oven to 375°F.
Wash peppers, cut off tops, and remove stem and seeds. If you’re using larger peppers, you can cut them in half and make double the amount of stuffed peppers by using both halves (just be sure to make more stuffing).
Bring pot of water to a boil and drop peppers in, parboiling them for a few minutes. Remove from water, pat dry, and set aside to cool.
While peppers are parboiling, prepare stuffing by mixing together rice, meat, parsley, Parmigiano Reggiano, oregano, basil, eggs, bread crumbs, salt, pepperoni (or one of the other substitutes), and [pepper] in a medium bowl.
Put some of your favorite tomato sauce in a small baking dish so the bottom is lightly covered.
Using your hands, rub olive oil all around the cooled parboiled peppers. Then sprinkle each pepper shell with salt, and after that stuff them with mixture and set in baking dish.
Cover peppers with rest of sauce and cover dish with foil.
Bake in oven for about 45 minutes to an hour or until the meat inside is cooked.
If you’ve made enough sauce, you can serve pasta with the it and then serve the peppers as a second piatto, or simply serve the peppers by themselves with crusty Italian bread.

Gilda's Sunday Afternoon Gravy with Meatballs

Polpette di Gilda con Sugo di Pomodoro di Domenica
When we were growing up Sunday meals were often had in the mid-afternoon and often consisted of a pasta dish with “gravy” (home-made tomato sauce with meatballs, Italian sweet and hot sausages, and sometimes even braciole). Gravy in Standard English strictly refers to thickened juices from meats, not fruits or vegetables. In Italian immigrant households, the word gravy brought to mind the aromatic scents of tomatoes simmering, bacon, onions and garlic frying, meatballs, sausages, and sometimes braciole all basking in that rich, red sauce that evolved into a gastronomic ecstasy during the course of the day as it lay simmering on the stove. I remember Grandma Madalena’s apartment building in Queens on Cherry Avenue – when you entered the foyer, the aromas of gravy would hit you immediately. When she and her husband Antonio lived at their house in Queens, you would smell that same aroma on the weekend. There always seemed to be an infinite supply of that gravy, and with all the relatives, you really needed it – we were all big eaters (some of us still are!).
The recipe you see is for the meatballs and sauce – I have not gone into the sausages or braciole here, but you can certainly make them and add to the gravy. I tried to keep this as authentic as possible to the way Gilda would make it, keeping in mind I would prefer using fresh herbs rather than the dried, especially if they’re available. Also, when I am real ambitious in the summer, I will use home-grown fresh Roma/San Marzano tomatoes for the sauce – for that, you would need to score the tomato tops, and then boil them for a couple of minutes. You would then remove them from the water and let them cool before peeling and using for the gravy.
For the Sunday afternoon meal we would have a salad first, followed by pasta with the gravy, and then meatballs, sausage, and/or braciole as a second course. Desserts, such as Italian cookies, pastries, or fresh fruit, would be later to allow digestion time. Of course, there were always leftovers – very nice for Sunday evening panini.
Ingredients for the Gravy:
2 – 28 oz cans of San Marzano tomatoes, strained
1 – 28 oz can tomato purée
1 – 6 oz can tomato paste
Sea salt to taste
1 T sugar
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Peperoncino piccante tritato (optional)
2 t dried parsley
2 t dried basil
7-8 basil leaves, broken up
1 bay leaf
2 t oregano
1 t thyme
1 c red wine
½ package of bacon
2 yellow onions, diced small
5-6 garlic toes, chopped
1 carrot, chopped up fine
2 celery ribs with leaves, minced
½ lb mushrooms, chopped (optional)
½ c of grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Preparation:
Pour the tomato purée, strained tomatoes and tomato paste in a saucepot and cook on medium flame until it begins to simmer then reduce the flame to low. Stir the sauce, making sure the paste is thoroughly integrated.
Add the oregano, dried basil, thyme, salt, pepper, [peperoncino piccante tritato], bay leaf and sugar. Stir to blend all ingredients.
In a frying pan, cook the bacon until crispy on both sides. Remove bacon, and then add your onions and garlic to the bacon fat. Cook them until caramelized. Remove from pan and place in small bowl. By this time the aromas are driving everyone mad with hunger – you can offer the onions, garlic and bacon to the beggars hovering around you – delish! My sister Adele and I would fight over who gets what!
If you have Italian sausages, ribs, or braciole, this is the time to fry them – right in the bacon fat! Once you brown these meats (if any), place them right into the tomato sauce, an addition which graduates the sauce into becoming gravy.
Now turn off the heat to the frying pan, and at this time begin to make your meatballs (see recipe). In the same pan fat, brown the meatballs and add them directly to the sauce. Should you need additional grease for the pan, use a little olive oil.
Once the meatballs are done, pour out most of the pan fat being careful not to lose any of the brown bits in the bottom of the pan.
Add the [mushrooms], carrot, and celery, and return to heat. Cook on low for 3-4 minutes.
Add red wine to the pan mixture and deglaze the pan for 4-5 minutes or until the wine is reduced by half.
Add the pan mixture to the sauce and stir to blend.
Add the fresh basil and Parmigiano Reggiano and stir.
Cook on low flame for no less than 4 hours. Stir every 10-15 minutes.
Serve with whatever pasta you like. I prefer my Aunt Lydia’s macaroni - rigatoni.
Buon appetito!
Ingredients for Polpette (Meatballs):
2 lbs of ground meat, equal parts lean ground beef, pork, and veal
Old stale Italian bread, about ½ a load, softened with milk or water, and broken up into very small pieces with your hands
2-3 eggs, slightly beaten
½ t garlic powder (or to taste)
½ t onion powder
1 t oregano seasoning (or to taste)
½ t thyme (or to taste)
¼ c parsley flakes (or to taste)
¾ c grated Parmigiano Romano or Pecorino Romano
1 or 2 t sea salt (or to taste – yes, you can taste the meat mixture even though it’s raw – Carl Zeoli really liked that. In Europe it’s called Bistecca alla Tartara)
¼ - ½ t black pepper
Bacon fat for frying (see gravy recipe)
Preparation:
Mix all ingredients gently in a large bowl until well combined.
Roll meatballs 1 ½- 1 ¾ inch diameter.
Place meatballs in the pan with bacon/saussage/braciole fat over medium heat.
Fry meatballs in the fat, rolling frequently, until evenly browned and juices run clear.
Drop meatballs into the gravy and let simmer for awhile to flavor sauce.
Serve with your favorite pasta and sauce, or separately as a second course.
Note: You can also bake or broil these if the frying part is too much of a hassle-- I use my oven for frying especially if I don’t want to have splattering on the stove. Keep in mind that Gilda did not oven fry these – all the cooking was all done on the stove.

Agnello con Cuscus del Nord Africa

Agnello con Cuscus del Nord Africa
Lamb with couscous from North Africa, a succulent dish I can never forget ever since my Peace Corps days back in the early 1970s. I served in Libreville, Gabon, as a teacher of English as a second language. My closest friends while I was there were three Senegalese: Roquayya, her brother Abbesolo, and his wife Binta. They lived next door to me, and I often broke bread with them at lunchtime. Roquayya was an exceptional cook.
We all ate from a main large platter; it was a ritual – first we would wash our hands with a very hot cloth with the scent of fresh lemons, crouched around a low-lying table surrounded by plush multi-colored pillows. Then Roquayya would serve the food – I will never forget her Moroccan couscous with lamb – the aroma alone would put you into food nirvana. She loved Moroccan food and was very skilled in preparing many specialties from that area of Africa.
Ordinarily this dish would be highly spiced, but she omitted the piment (a very hot pepper – like a habanera) for my benefit. If you like heat, don’t let me stop you! After the meal we would have Wolof tea served in three rounds: the first is bitter (no sugar), the second has a little sugar, and the last is the sweetest. The ritual mirrors the development of friendship – as time goes on you get to know people better as you spend quality time with them.
According to my mother Gilda, my granddad Santo spent a lot of quality time in his travels, especially through North Africa. Santo served as an officer in the Italian carabiniere, an elite police force of the Italian republic. He served in Libya when it was an Italian colony and had opportunities to travel to other nearby countries. He was particularly fond of couscous. Gilda said that Adelina, his wife, would often prepare couscous dishes for him. Undoubtedly I think he would have enjoyed Roquayya’s lamb with couscous, too.
Ingredients for 4:
1 small onion, peeled and sliced

Olive oil for frying (does not need to be extra-virgin)

1 lb leg of lamb, diced into small pieces

1 garlic toe, peeled and crushed

1 sweet red pepper, diced

1 T tomato puree

15 oz of canned San Marzano tomatoes

13 -14 fluid oz of water

2 sprigs of fresh basil, shredded

Sea salt

For the couscous:

4½ oz couscous

About 5 fluid oz vegetable stock
Preparation:

Heat a large saucepan and gently fry the onion in a little olive oil for 10 minutes. Add the diced lamb, the garlic, red pepper and tomato puree. Stir in the San Marzano tomatoes, water and basil. Add salt to taste; cover with a lid or a couple of tight layers of foil, then simmer on a low flame for around 1½ hours, or alternatively transfer into a deep baking pan. Cover with foil and finish cooking it in the oven at 300º F for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender.Tip the dry couscous into a serving bowl. Then pour the boiling vegetable stock onto the couscous - it should just cover it. Leave to stand for 10 minutes, and then fluff up with a fork just before serving. Serve the lamb with couscous and a mixed leaf salad as a side.
Buon appetito!
Note: When I made this for Wally, I used chicken pieces instead of the lamb – it works well for both. Although I haven’t tried it with beef, you may want to experiment and see.