Sicilia on a Plate: Sweet and Sour RabbitThe ancient world is evident in Sicilian coking. This dish shows the influence of the Saracens who invaded and occupied this island for two centuries beginning in the 700s. Whereas the ancient Romans imported Sicilian gastronomy into their culture, the Saracens exported their culinary attributes to the Sicilians. Lemons, oranges, raisins, pasta (beginning as couscous – known as
cuscusu in Sicilian), and sugar were introduced – the first sugar refinery in Europe was established at Trappeto, and Sicilian pastries and confections grew to be an art. Marzipan became popular and was exported to other parts of the world.
The Arabs also affected the Sicilian language – the Sicilian wine, Marsala, is from the Arabic words
Marsah – el – Allah, translated as
Port of God. Outside of the gastronomic benefits, the Arab occupation of Sicily was a time of economic prosperity, peace, and religious harmony among Arabs, Jews, and Christians. Without the influence of the Saracens, many of the delicious foods we know today as Italian specialties would probably not be known in Western cultures, such as this savory and delicious
coniglio in agrodolce that Wally and I had at a hotel restaurant in Siracusa.
Although you can purchase rabbit in the U.S. in supermarkets, albeit frozen, rabbit is frequently hunted in many regions – there is nothing like fresh! Perhaps one of your neighbors is a rabbit hunter – if so, you might be able to work out a deal – let the neighbor hunt, and you cook. If you do, be sure to keep all the unused parts for making a rich stock later on.
Ingredients for 4:1 rabbit, cleaned, boned, and in 8 or 10 pieces
About 10-11 oz of celery hearts, chopped up in very thin slices
About 3½ oz of olives stuffed with anchovies
A handful of capers, washed and squeezed of brine
1 shallot
About ½ a glass of red wine vinegar
About ½ a glass of extra-virgin olive oil
1 T sugar
About 1½ T tomato paste
Sea salt and pepper to taste
Flour as needed for dredging
Preparation:
Dredge the rabbit pieces in flour. Heat a frying pan with oil and sauté the shallot. Put the rabbit pieces in the pan and brown them slightly on a medium-high flame. Add the vinegar, sugar, and salt and pepper. At this point cover and let the rabbit become infused with the flavors of the ingredients you just added. Dilute the tomato paste with a tablespoon of water. Then put in the diluted tomato paste, olives, and capers, and cook for about a ½ hour on a medium flame.
Serve with a good red wine, such as a dolcetto from northern Italy.
Buon appetito!
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